Notes from the Sewing Studio

Shoe Design Competition - MFDC 2010: 1st Prize Ladies Leisure Shoe

2011-12-03T03:07:00.000-08:00

Shoe Design Competition, MFDC 2010

1st Prize Ladies Leisure Shoes

Photo taken by my friend, Kelly, another design student.

Note: this is the last entry for this blog. you can find my new blog is at http://1001countdown.blogspot.com/

The photo above is my winning entry for the MFDC 2010 Shoe Design Competition in the Ladies Leisure Shoe category. Finals were held last year April, my birthday month. So that was a really wonderful birthday present!

The competition is organised by the Malaysian Footwear Association. The way the competition works is that there are 4 categories: Ladies Fashion Shoe, Ladies Evening Shoe, Ladies Leisure Shoes and Men's Shoe. The Grand Prize Winner is chosen from among the 1st prize winners of each category. I didn't win the Grand Prize.....that was won by the winner of the Ladies Fashion Shoe, and it was very well deserved as his design was outstanding.

For fashion design students, I would really recommend you try to enter as many competitions as you can, and for fashion students in Malaysia, this is the big national competition for shoe design.

Granted I have limited experience in this area, and I wouldn't even have entered but for Jasmi, my design teacher who kept saying to us students:

"You have to try. The experience is good for you. And even if you don't win, you will learn to handle disappointment. "

Thank you Jasmi. For your very wise words and your unstinting support.

The reason for entering competitions is because the publicity is good, and having a winner in your portfolio is a real plus. In this competition, the Grand Prize Winner got a chance to work with a large shoe retailer and part of the prize was attending an international shoes trade fair with the shoe association people. Also, your name gets into the database of finalists and winners at the Malaysian Footwear Association, one of the places the design companies, manufacturers and retailers go to for their interns and to fill up positions. For about a year after the competition, I got emails about job vacancies.

From a personal point of view, suddenly I found myself elevated from being a mere fashion design student to Designer status, in the eyes of relatives, friends and acquaintances; and my services were sought after for designing/making things like evening wear and wedding gowns besides shoes. Unfortunately, I was not ready for any of these opportunities that fame (yeah, right! ; )) brought to my doorstep and had to explain to everyone that hey! I am still a 1st year student at SML, and I am not ready to go into business. And no, I can't actually make the shoes myself. I worked with a shoe designer recommended by the school, who had all the specialised equipment for shoe-making, though I did the embellishments...beadings, the carving of the african mother and child which is not really a carving but molded from paper clay and painted over with acrylic paint....which is ok for a prototype.

Anyway, this is last year's big news and things have moved on.
I have taken a long break from fashion college, hardly did any sewing and so this blog have been neglected.
I have started sewing again and plan to re-start fashion college next year.

I am so grateful to Madam, the principal at my school, who was really understanding, and will keep the course open for when I am ready to go back.

So this is really a good time to say adieu to this blog, and I have started a new blog which is a personal journal of my creative journey in fashion, sewing, art and travelling with some inspiration, thoughts and musings thrown in. You can find it at http://1001countdown.blogspot.com/

I leave you with a photo of my prize certificate which I put on my bookshelf to impress visitors ; )

MDFC 2010 Certificate, 1st Prize Ladies Leisure Shoe

Wishing you a Joyful Christmas and a Happy New Year

2009-12-22T08:28:00.000-08:00

My Christmas Tree

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

Wishing you a Christmas that's full of Joy, Peace and Happiness.

May 2010 be the year your dreams come true.

See you in the New Year.

MFDC Shoe Design Competition - I've been shortlisted!

2009-12-21T06:24:00.000-08:00

What a lovely Christmas surprise!

I've been shortlisted for the finals of the Malaysian Footwear Design Competition (MFDC) 2010, organised by the Perak Footwear Association.

Design teacher, Jasmi, helped me to focus and fine-tune my design for the leisure shoe category.

So Jasmi, a BIG "thank you" to you!

Finalists will take part in a fashion show to be held in 2010.

Next step is to get the shoe design made up.
The folks at the Perak Footwear Association have offered to help source an interested manufacturer.

This is sooooo exciting.......

I feel a new hobby coming on.......

2009-12-19T07:05:00.000-08:00

Limhwa Half Elf

photo credit: needoll @ flickr

My original purpose was to get a ball-jointed doll to practise draping/pattern-making and design sampling.

After doing my research on what's available out there dolly-wise, I'm hooked and well on the way to joining the ranks of all the ball-jointed doll addicts out there.

I've made my first purchase: a 57cm Limhwa half-elf.

I requested red hair and green eyes as she's going to be an Irish elf-princess.

I'll get additional wigs and eyes later on for different looks. And I'm going to be doing the face-up for her.....apparently, all it takes is some practise......

I ordered from their US-based international site, http://www.limhwa.com/ , and had some queries which were answered promptly by 2 very helpful ladies, Catrina and Joan.

There are so many dolls out there and deciding which one to get is a real headache. It was a good thing I found the Den of Angels Forum, as they have discussions going on for all the various types of dolls.

Here's the link: http://www.denofangels.com/forums/index.php

Thanks to the discussions at Den of Angels, I realised I needed to get the optional high-heel feet as well as the normal feet and I was able to make the order together with the doll, saving me additional international courier fees.

There is also a thread comparing the poseability of the dolls, which is an important factor for me as I intend to use the doll as a photo model for my design samples. And the biggest bonus? some helpful person measured up her Limhwa elf and now I have a full set of measurements which means I can get some new clothes ready for her. The poor thing comes naked.

I also found the Flickr Ball-Jointed Dolls' groups to contain tons of photo's of the various dolls, which is great as I could see the dolls in various angles and different poses.

Here are some of the groups I looked at.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/bdjs/

http://www.flickr.com/groups/balljointeddolls/

http://www.flickr.com/groups/bjdfavorites/pool/

Be warned though......

Latidolls

photo credit: Sⓘndy @ Flickr

How can you resist these?

..........which is why I'm my way to the Latidoll site......

http://latidoll.com/2007_en/index.htm

Ever wanted to try drafting your own dress patterns?

2009-12-16T06:46:00.000-08:00

Pattern Drafts

image from wkdesigner.wordpress.com

Welcome back Don Morin (aka Weekend Designer)!

Yes, it's true and it says so on his Wkdesigner blog.

Folks, this is the place to go if you've ever wanted to try drafting your own patterns.

The Weekend Designer has 100 posts giving pattern drafting lessons from belts to evening gowns.

here's the link:

http://wkdesigner.wordpress.com/

Spring 2010 Trends: Corsets / Bustiers

2009-12-12T08:37:00.000-08:00

Spring 2010 Trends: Corsets

images from style.com

Designers continue the trend for corsets / bustiers into Spring 2010.

A new development: peplums.

I like Lanvin's elegant flowing cocktail number and Karl Lagerfeld's chic top which looks great paired with a short skirt or shorts.

Victor and Rolf's ruffled corset is perfect for Spring 2010's lighter mood.

Fall 2009: Bustiers and/or Corsets

2009-12-10T09:10:00.000-08:00

Fall 2009 Corsets

Images from Style.com

There's something about a corset that makes me feel all dressed-up, whether I'm pairing it with a pair of jeans, loose evening trousers or over a full skirt.

note: Some people may refer to the above-type corsets as bustiers to distinguish between lingerie and well, not lingerie. So what do you call a bustier with a built-in bra?

A Cortier?

Personal Style: Dr Porntip Rojanasunan

2009-12-09T09:57:00.000-08:00

Dr Porntip Rojanasunan

images from Dr Porntip Rojanasunan Fans Club Facebook

For someone known as “Dr. Death”, Dr. Porntip Rojanasunan, widely accepted as the best forensic pathologist in Thailand, is not what you expect and certainly not someone you easily forget.

The 50-something Dr. Porntip has her own personal style which I can only describe as glam-punk with spiky, multi-coloured hair paired with trendy, fashionable outfits. And she looks great!

But she’s more than just a pretty face.

She’s been interviewed by numerous magazines and newspapers worldwide and has a Facebook fan club, for her work in fighting for justice for those who can no longer speak for themselves.

Dr. Pornthip is an outspoken human rights activist, using her skills in forensics to find evidence of police abuse. Despite harassment, threats and lawsuits, she frequently challenges suspect autopsy findings by police, pointing out cases of abuse.

Criminal forensics was directly under police control until, due to Dr. Porntip’s efforts, the Central Forensic Science Institute was set up, reporting directly to the Ministry of Justice.

Dr. Porntip is the current Director of the institute and has introduced DNA evidence to Thailand.
Her next goal is to set up a national missing persons institute, to record the many cases of unexplained disappearances and deaths in Thailand.
After the 2004 Tsunami, she headed efforts to identify victims in Southern Thailand, and assisted in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans.

The energetic Dr. Porntip is the author of several crime books and a frequent crime commentator on the news.

On a personal level, Dr. Pornthip has successfully undergone treatment for 2 cases of cancer. She relaxes by spending time with her family and cooking.

Explaining her unique personal style, she says she had wanted to be an interior designer. She chose forensics over conventional medicine because she liked solving puzzles and because,

“As a doctor, I can’t wear whatever I want. I suppose I express my creative side through my dressing. And the dead do not complain about the way I look.” *

* source: the star publication

Textile Design Competition

2009-12-08T06:16:00.000-08:00

Fabrics

photo credit: qusic at Flickr.com

Ever wished you could try your hand at Textile Design?

Well, now you can, at Textile Republic, an interactive community for designers from around the world.

There's an ongoing design competition on their website, where winning designs and logos are used to create a line of fabrics, clothing, wallpaper, stationery, and other merchandise.

Winners receive $1,000 cash and a 5% royalty from profits generated from sales of their design. Designs are selected for production every 2-3 months.

Visit their website to see the winning designs, browse the fabrics and keep a look out for the next competition submission date.

Here's the link:

http://www.textilerepublic.com/

Monday Musings

2009-12-07T08:39:00.000-08:00

Image credit: wikipedia.org

http://www.merjuligavle.se/English/VISIT-GAVLE/THE-CHRISTMAS-GOAT/

It’s that time of the year when we think of peace on earth and goodwill to all mankind, putting the Christmas tree up, getting Christmas shopping done, planning the Christmas menu and worrying about what to wear for Christmas dinner.

It’s also that time of the year when I wait expectantly to see if the Great Goat of Gavle, Sweden, will survive another arson attack.

Since 1966, when the Great Goat was first erected, it has survived Christmas only 10 times. It was burnt down almost every year, with the following exceptions:

1972: sabotaged and collapsed

1976: run over by a car

1978: kicked to bits

1983: legs were cut off

1997: attacked by fireworks

In 2005, “Santa Claus” and the “Gingerbread Man” shot flaming arrows at the goat which burnt down.

The goat has, in past years, been guarded by a 6.5 ft fence, by Securitas, Police, Homeguards, the Gavle Infantry, volunteers and a web-cam. It has been fire-proofed and soaked in flame retardant.

The arsonists weren’t just locals. A Norwegian was arrested for attempted arson in 1998 and in 2001, an American, Lawrence Jones, set fire to the goat on 23rd dec. Jones was arrested, spent ½ a month in the slammer and fined 100,000 kroners (though apparently the fine is still outstanding).

His cigarette lighter was also confiscated.

Said Goat was treated with flame retardant in 2006 and it escaped with just a smoldering foot.

But in 2008, the Goat Committee of Gavle decided to leave the goat untreated upon complaints that the retardant made the goat “look like a terrier”. It burnt down on 27th Dec.

This event has been blogged about, has its own fan site and is featured on the town’s website where Goat Fans can read about the history of the goat, watch a film of the goat being erected, keep up with goat news through the blog, and help keep a watch on the goat through 2 webcams.

English bookmakers have been taking bets on the survival or demise of the goat since 1988.

Current odds are 6:4 arsonists to authorities.

Watch Christmas lights on the Goat through webcam at the Gavle website below:

http://www.merjuligavle.se/English/VISIT-GAVLE/THE-CHRISTMAS-GOAT/

How to make your own Ball Jointed Doll

2009-12-05T13:47:00.000-08:00

Obitsu Doll: Model Gretel

Photo credit: parabox.jp

Collector’s dolls make a wonderful Christmas present for someone special. If you can sew, you can make your own doll parts, construct your own custom doll and sew period costumes for it. I’ve posted the link to a doll-making lesson below.

For those of us who like working with draping, dolls are really useful for trying out new designs like Vionnet did. She would drape fabric on a 24” doll while working out the patterns for her draped garments.

I’ve been thinking of getting a doll for some time but it was hard to find one suitable for the purpose. Then I discovered Japanese dolls. After doing some research and lurking on doll making/collecting forums, I’ve settled on Obitsu, who make a ball-jointed doll with a soft torso, which makes it easy to move around and pose.

Proportions are 1/6 to 1/3 of human proportions which is ideal for experimenting. I was really excited to find the 1/3 version is 60cm, the same height as the one Vionnet used!

These collector’s dolls are pricey, and one could easily spend up to USD600 for a fully-finished smaller model constructed from Obitsu parts and hand-painted in the US.

So I wavered for quite some time on the pro’s and con’s of getting a (much cheaper) 27cm model vs a 60cm model. I’ve decided to go for it and get the 60cm Gretel model (shown above) from http://parabox.jp/eng/index.html, which comes with assembled body and head; and add on a doll's wig and a doll's stand which I will need if I'm going to use the doll as a draping model.

This will cost around USD400, which is more expensive than what I paid for Sandy and Mandy, my dress forms! But hey, it's Christmas after all!

How to make Ball Jointed Dolls:

The easy way is to buy the doll parts, assemble them, paint on the face (or purchase a ready-painted doll's head) and add a dolly wig. There are loads of doll making resources on the internet, and doll parts on eBay.

However, to make your own doll parts, read on.......

Dollhouse Noah from Japan, who makes and sells dolls, has generously posted a step by step lesson on how to make and construct your own ball-jointed doll parts using styroform, sawdust and a bonding agent. You then string the parts together, do the finishing and add a doll’s wig.

Her instructions are in English and very easy to understand. So if you’re interested in trying your hand at doll-making, you'll end up with a 100% custom-made collector’s doll!

Take a look at a couple of the dolls she made below. Aren't they beautiful?

Here’s the link: http://www2d.biglobe.ne.jp/~dhnoah/make_00.htm

Photo credit: Dollhouse Noah

Make a Fashion Statement this Christmas: The Bib Necklace

2009-12-05T07:58:00.000-08:00

images from style.com

The accessory statement this season is the bib necklace.
Seen everywhere on the catwalks, they range from Dries Van Noten’s understated braided collar to Vera Wang’s beaded and diamanted extravaganza’s.

Or add a Victorian touch with these beaded bib necklaces featured on trendhunter:

images from trendhunter.com

Smoothing out the Lumps and Bumps

2009-12-04T08:01:00.000-08:00

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

I call these my “investments”*lol*.

They pay multiple dividends in saving clothes which I would have dumped into the bin, and works a treat to smooth out those lumps and bumps. Now, even wearing body-hugging lycra is no longer a challenge for me. Bring 'em on, gals!

In the 50’s, Mum and all her friend wore them and they looked great with their wasp-like waists and smooth bodylines. Mum looked fantastic in her form-fitting cheongsams way into her mid-60’s.

Corsets have come a long way comfort-wise. Unlike Mum, I don’t have to squeeze myself into something obviously too small for me in an effort to obtain the requisite hourglass figure. I can breathe and eat full-sized portions at dinner parties.

What works best for me when buying corsets, is to find one that fits well, feels comfortable but smooths out the body line. By having a sleeker figure, I automatically look slimmer anyway.

for the latest lingerie trends, take a look at the lingerie trend report in my previous post HERE

The new Fashion Accessory?

2009-12-04T07:57:00.000-08:00

photo credit: http://workbook.yoriquo.com

With the outbreak of H1N1, you see people wearing them everywhere.

But why wear a boring white surgical mask when you can wear these?

Yoriko Yoshida is a Japanese illustrator who has put a silver lining into the H1N1 scare and turned swine flu surgical masks into colorful and witty fashion statements.

There are lots more designs on Yoriko Yoshida’s website. Here's the link:

http://workbook.yoriquo.com/?cid=45160

Free pattern for Junya Watanabe party dress from Show Studio

2009-12-03T07:12:00.000-08:00

photo credits: showstudio

Designed by Junya Watanabe, this dress is perfect for the upcoming party season with a camisole top and 50's inspired skirt. Make it in one colour or sew up a plain coloured top with a print or plaid skirt as shown in the pic above.

You can download the printable pattern from the Showstudio site HERE

Note: the pattern is given in one size only

Fashion School: What I am doing now

2009-12-03T01:43:00.000-08:00

photo credit: Si1very at Flickr.com

Researching spiders.

I don't particularly like the creatures, but I'm looking for something original for my design project, for which the final result would be a small collection for the end of course fashion show.

As budding designers, we have to be creative and original.

We can't just look at other designers' work and add A sleeves to B collar to C bodice and D skirt.

Jasmi is tough and he'll make us re-work our assignments until we get something original (This is my 3rd attempt at this assignment). But that's a good thing as he challenges me to expand my limited mental horizons.

At the same time, having been a left brained techy for most of my life, I'm having a lot of difficulty changing brain gears and finding an original theme without Jasmi saying "that's been done before."

"Is there anything someone hasn't done before?" I asked petulantly.

"You can have an original viewpoint, a fresh take on an existing subject." said Jasmi. There was just the slightest hint of exasperation in his tone.

He has repeated himself so many times to so many of us, he is almost hoarse. All the students apparently go through this process of trying to cut a new path through the creative wilderness only to find that someone else has gone before them and built a highway.

So......

A fresh take on Spiders.

I may be jumping ahead of myself but I'm already imagining this would be good inspiration for some Goth stuff with a hint of Yamamoto minimalism, a bit of decaying Victorian grandeur a la Miss Havisham of Charles Dicken's "Great Expectations" and a touch of Anne Rice.

But don't tell Jasmi.

I'm supposed to go through the design process step by step.

And researching spiders is step1.

btw, did you know that the hogna helluo consumes the male after mating?

Madeleine Vionnet: Exhibition at the Musee Les Arts Decoratifs

2009-12-02T07:53:00.000-08:00

photo credit: www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

The Musee Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris has one of the biggest collections of decorative arts in France covering the period from the middle ages to the present day, housed in 10 "period" rooms.

The Vionnet exhibition runs until 31st January 2010, so if you happen to be in Paris.......

If not, you can still browse through photo's of some of the exhibits, read commentaries on Vionnet's work and download a catalogue (with photo's of her garments) on the Musee Les Arts Decoratifs' website HERE.

What I am reading now: The Collection of the Kyoto Institute: Fashion

2009-12-02T07:23:00.000-08:00

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

This is without a doubt, my absolutely most favorite book on fashion!

If you're like me and love Fashion History, you'll positively covet this book.

I ordered it online some time back together with a ton of other books and chose the courier option.

When I opened the door, the poor DHL guy was perspiring profusely and panting from lugging the two large boxes up a couple of flights of stairs!

This contributed to most of the weight!

It came in a boxed set of 2 large books with beautiful photography and is a fantastic resource on fashions from the 18th to 20th century, which makes this a real bargain at under USD70.

I especially liked the close-up photos of the embellishments and garment details.

Vol. 1 covers the 18th and 19th centuries and Vol 2 is dedicated to the 20th century.

Here's a peek at some of the beautiful photography:

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

The Little Black Dress (2)

2009-12-01T09:20:00.000-08:00

images from style.com

Here are some of my other favorites from the Fall Winter 2009 collections.

I like Devi Kroll's lace over blue satin, Malandrino's retro look, Elie Saab's sequins with cut-out, Erdem's waisted sheer sleeves with embroidered sequined skirt, and the edgy urban Proenza Schouler number.

Since The Little Black Dress does not actually have to be black these days, I have LBD’s in black, dark chocolate and a satiny taupe which takes me through all occasions all year round.

I love my LBD’s.

By mixing and matching them with different accessories – shoes, bags, scarfs, ear-rings and necklaces, and by doing my hair differently I can get different looks.

The original Little Black Dress is the one designed by Givenchy and worn by Audrey Hepburn in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”. You could wear it today and still look to the minute ……the hallmark of a true classic.

You can see it HERE

The Little Black Dress (1)

2009-12-01T08:53:00.000-08:00

Jil Sander

images from style.com

Not sure what to wear to the office party, to the opening of the new art gallery, to meet his family ?

You can always fall back on that classic standby:
the Little Black Dress.

This season, look no further than Jil Sander for the modern LBD: minimalist classic with an edge.

Party Season: Glamourous Gowns

2009-11-30T04:04:00.000-08:00

images from style.com

If you've got an invitation to a Black Tie or a White Tie occasion, lucky you!

You can pull out all the stops and go for the glitz and glamour.

I like Donna Karan's edgy geometric, Christian Dior's ethnic shocking pink chiffon lace, Bottega Veneta's Old Hollywood glamour, Reem Acra's one-shoulder drape and Elie Saab's bejewelled shoulders offset by soft flowing chiffon

It's Party Season Again!

2009-11-28T08:28:00.000-08:00

Cocktail Dresses

images from style.com

3 more days to December and it's Party Season again!

Soon, streets will glow with Christmas lights and shop windows filled with wonderful Christmas displays.

Christmas is not the time for dull colours.

Bring on the satins, silks, tafettas, velvets and rich, rich jewel colours.

Or be a contrarian and go for icy colours or black.

Here are my favorite cocktail dresses from the Fall Winter 2009 collections.

Jewellery - Ring Designs by Adris

2009-11-27T01:14:00.000-08:00

Jewellery Design - Rings by Adris

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

From left to right: aquamarine in a baguette-cut, mid-blue sapphire in cushion cut, deep-blue sapphire in oval cut.

This year, I'm giving Mum a special Christmas present.

It's fun popping into our long time jewellers, Adris to discuss designs. Adris is no longer around and his son Chola runs the family business.

Chola scans the gemstones into his design software, then uses the software to simulate the real thing, and sends us a sample of the design. It's a great way to see what the completed piece of jewellery will look like.

The Bias Cut

2009-11-26T06:44:00.000-08:00

Photo credit: flippinyank at Flickr.com

In a bias cut, the pattern pieces are cut diagonal to the warp or lengthwise grain of the fabric giving the garment more stretch, drape and “cling”.

The bias cut is ideal for designs requiring a lot of drape or stretch such as grecian draped dresses or gowns and the “tube” dress.

Body curves are emphasized using this cut, so if you’re like me and shaped like a stick, try a bias cut dress and you will be amazed to find you’ve got curves after all!

Peplums, draped frills and edge bindings are some of the items cut to leverage on the drape and stretch of the bias.

The bias cut was first developed by Madeleine Vionnet in the 1920’s. Her highly popular designs catapulted her to fame and set the direction of fashion in the 1930’s. I've posted a brief write-up on Vionnet HERE.

Fashion Competitions - Miami Fashion Week 2010 - Fashion Design and Fashion Photography Competitions

2009-11-25T21:43:00.001-08:00

Miami Fashion Week 2009

photo credit: miamitoday.net

Those who aren't in time for the GenArt "Plastics make it Possible" competition, here's another opportunity to enter a Fashion Design competition.

The 2010 Miami Fashion Week Student Designer Competition and Emerging Designer Competition is a great chance for fashion students and emerging designers to showcase your talents on an international platform.

There's also a Fashion Photography Competition for Photography students.

Closing date for all submissions is 15th Jan 2010.

Student Designer Competition:

The competition is an international platform for fashion students anywhere in the world.
You have to be enrolled in a fashion design, fashion mechandising or fashion management course to be eligible for entry.

Here's the link to the Competition rules and instructions for submission:

http://www.miamifashionweek.com/Designer_Competition/Fashion_Student_Competition.html

Emerging Designer Competition:

You have to have been in business for at least 1 year and less than 5 years, and be producing 2 collections a year and be selling in 1 store at the minimum.

Here's the link:
http://www.miamifashionweek.com/Designer_Compe
tition/Emerging_Designer_Competition.html

Student Fashion Photographers:

You have to be enrolled in a photography course at an accredited institute to qualify for entry.

Here's the link:
http://www.miamifashionweek.com/Designer_Competition/Fashion_Photography_Competition.html

Fashion Design Competition: GenArt "Plastics Make It Possible"

2009-11-24T05:40:00.000-08:00

image credit: discover.genart.org

Found out about this recently and the deadline for submission is 11:59pm EST 1st Dec 2009.

So if you're quick with the needle........

All themes are acceptable but you must use Approved Materials whch are fabrics derived from plastic material, such as polyester. Embellishments, thread, trims, buttons and embellments need not be plastic based.

There's a list of approved materials in the official rules on the GenArt website. Here's the link:

http://discover.genart.org/contests/plastics-make-it-possible/rules

What I'm Reading Now: Madeleine Vionnet

2009-11-23T03:42:00.000-08:00

What I am Reading Now: Madeleine Vionnet

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

Our Malaysian bookshops don't stock a lot of fashion sewing books.

So a while ago I ordered a whole bunch of books online including this book on Madeleine Vionnet by Betty Kirke, which I am reading and thoroughly enjoying. I thought I'll give you a glimpse of what's inside.

When it first arrived, I expected it to be just another coffee table book with pretty pictures. That's mainly because of its size: 15 x 11 inches, and heavy! It's definitely not something I can pop into my bag for a quick perusal while waiting at the dentists.

But the book actually had what I was looking for, which are close-up photo's of Vionnet's designs and write-up's on her techniques including features on her key designs/patterns.

According to the write-up on the inside front cover, there are 38 patterns from Vionnet's original designs and over 400 illustrations and photos.

There are no actual usable dress patterns in the book, but there are quite a number of illustrations on the schematics including how the pattern pieces were placed on the fabrics before cutting. You can see what I mean in the pic above.

If you can draft patterns, you can probably figure out how to make a pattern from the schematics with a bit of trial and error.

I'm definitely going to try doing this once I complete the Sew Along capsule, or maybe I might replace one of the Sew Along items with a Vionnet-Repro?

Work in Progress - Sew Along: Lemongrass Silk Top

2009-11-22T04:19:00.000-08:00

Casual Capsule Collection

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

I have resurrected the Sew Along project which had been put on hold for a (long) while.

It's nice to sew some casual clothes for a change, and nice to sew something for myself too.

Unfortunately, I won't be winning any prizes for the Sew Along as the deadline is 31st Dec to complete 6 items, but I may be able to complete 2.

I am aiming for 1 top in Nov, and the dress in Dec.

The colour scheme has changed from the pic above.

Colours are now Khaki, Lemongrass and Burnt Orange.

You can see the fabrics by clicking here.

I am using the lemongrass silk for the top, and can't decide between Burnt Orange and Khaki silks for the dress. But, one thing at a time.......

Here's the work in progress for the top:

WIP Lemongrass top: Main and Lining

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

Pic 1 shows the main pieces which have been joined and Pic 2 shows the lining pieces which also has been sewn together. The lining is habutai silk.

Now I'm working on joining the lining to the main.

I find the easiest way is to join the pieces at the neckline, then the sleeve line.

This will create a sort of "tunnel" at the shoulders. I then pull the back pieces through the "tunnel" and voila! the seams will magically end up in between the main and lining.

(Note: if you are thinking of trying this technique, you have to do this step before sewing the back seam).

The difficult part for me is ensuring that both main and lining are the same width at the shoulders otherwise the top will not lie absolutely flat at the shoulders, and I will have to do the dreaded unpicking which is not easy with fragile silk.

So I need to iron, iron, iron and will probably tack both pieces together at the shoulders before machining.

Another Casualty of the Downturn: Luella Bartley

2009-11-20T08:45:00.000-08:00

images from style.com

Luella Bartley is the latest fashion casualty of the downturn which is a huge shame.

I thought Luella's collection for Spring/Summer 2010 is young, fresh and very Audrey Hepburn-ish.
Just right for the mood for the coming Spring season.

The company has stopped trading after losing its financial backing.

Last month, its ready-to-wear producer in Italy closed, resulting in the company being unable to fill its orders for Spring/Summer 2010.

Not being able to fulfil orders is a really BIG deal with fashion buyers as there is a domino effect on their retail sales.

Batik: Block Printing Method

2009-11-19T07:45:00.000-08:00

Batik Printing Blocks

Notes from the Sewing Studio 2009

Some old batik printing presses I got from my last trip to Jakarta, Indonesia.
These would have been used in the block printing method described here

I thought they were really nice and I'm going to display them as decorative items.

The designs are traditional Indonesian batik designs. The press at the top left is for printing borders in the batik fabric.

The presses were hand-fashioned from sheets of iron, and have a handle at the base.

Shoe Design Competition : Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

2009-11-16T03:59:00.000-08:00

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Calling all budding shoe designers!

Salvatore Ferragamo is one of the top labels in the shoe world, known for their quality and superb craftsmanship. Their museum in Florence, Italy has a collection that spans Ferragamo's career from 1927 until 1960.

The Museo Salvatore Ferragamo is holding a shoe design competition for students enrolled for the current year at international fashion and design schools.

Closing date for submission is 10th December 2009.

The winner will receive a scholarship worth Euro 15,000.
And reimbursement of travelling and hotel expenses to attend the prize-giving in Florence.

Here's the link for the contest rules and entry forms:

http://www.museoferragamo.it/en/opportunita-concorsi.php

Yellow Taffeta and Net Ball Gown - Final Version

2009-11-14T02:44:00.000-08:00

Notes from the Sewing Studio

Final Version almost completed.

Lining, hemming and finishing left to do.

looks very Scarlett O'Hara don't you think?

unfortunately, missed the deadline for the ball so this will be put on hold for the time being.

the sleeves have changed quite a bit from the original version.

my fav is still the previous version shown here

Safari Style - the real deal, dude

2009-10-31T07:50:00.000-07:00

jean's travel pics - sri lanka elephant safari

I had a great time in Sri Lanka.

Every day was packed with activities and sightseeing in spectacular historic sites.

i've just started a new blog for travel bloggings and will be posting my travel pics there.

here i am with travel buddies pow and kat all kitted out in our safari hats, ready to go elephant safari'ing.

well, ya'll know Safari Style is in for spring 2010, right?

now, if i could only figure out how i can look like this on the next safari........

http://notesfromthesewingstudio.blogspot.com/2009/10/spring-2010-trends-style-desert-safari.html

jean is on vacation. back on 30th October

2009-10-24T07:00:00.000-07:00

jean's travel pics: pow in hanoi

well, i'm packed and all ready for my adventure in exotic Sri Lanka. travelling by budget no-frills airline Air Asia and with a small tour group. there are 10 of us.

having globetrotted since my teens, i now know better and always travel light. there's nothing more stressful than wandering around strange airports, lugging around a lot of stuff i don't use.

for anything more than a week, i usually pack for 5 days. i don't pack consumables which can be purchased at the destination. a couple of dollars for mosquito repellent is small change, compared to the cost of air-tickets and hotel. and excess baggage charges.

Sri Lanka is 6 days, 5 nights.

weather is hot. 25 - 30 degress celsius. and humid.

very strenous sightseeing all the way and all but one night are overnight stops.

that means 4 hotels in 6 days. no time to send stuff to the laundry so more tops needed.

i have 2 bags: 1 check in with wheels, and a backpack.

passport and tickets goes into the bum bag for easy access.

photocopies of passport goes into the backpack and one set is kept at home.

here's my capsule:

in the check-in:

2 pairs jeans; 1 skirt, 6 t-shirts, 2 which can be dressed up if needed; scrunchable canvas hat, 1 pair spare sandals. 1 cotton "gym" pants and t-shirt for sleeping.

in the backpack:

jumper, shawl, socks

air asia's no-frills = no blankets.

i'll be travelling in jeans, t-shirt, sandals.

see you all on the 30th October!

Work in Progress - Shirley's Ball Gown (2)

2009-10-22T06:15:00.000-07:00

This is part 2 of this ballgown in progress.

pics for part 1 can be seen here

if i've not been my usual prolific blogging self, it's because of sleepless nights beavering away on the gown which is for a ball on the 31st, and which meant i had to complete it by saturday.

because, come sunday, i'll be flying west to eat lobsters and admire gemstones in sri lanka for 5 days. not that i've done that before......this will be my first trip to sri lanka and i'm really looking forward to the break. hope i can find some nice indian cottons and sari fabrics. And a nice beach.

spent 3 days experimenting on the draping for the asymmetric neckline on the gown to get the effect i wanted.

this is version 6, at least. i really liked version 5 which had numerous overlapping folds/pleats, done on the bias, making the tulle look like a different, textured fabric!

but it had less transparency.

i wasn't sure if shirley would like it. so i reduced the folds and ended up with this version.

today was the 1st and only fitting, since i was running short of time and still had tons to do.

being the good sport that shirley is, she tried on the gown sans side seams, side godets, lace on the bodice, zip and lining. i pinned her in and thankfully the body of the gown fit, and i didn't injure anyone with the super-sharp japanese pins. the bottom of the neckline V was a bit slack and needed some adjustments. pulling the excess fabric down 1 cm resolved the issue.

she really liked the neckline and the diagonal folds/pleats. of course i had to tell her about the previous version and guess what? she liked that even better, especially when i did a little demo with a bit of tulle.

there was no way i can make the change and finish the gown by saturday.

after some discussion, we both agreed the gown will not be worn for the tatler ball on the 31st but for the prestige ball 2nd week november. this is cool as i really wanted to do version 5.

Spring 2010 Trend - Style - Femme Fatale

2009-10-19T11:17:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

The femme fatale is making a comeback led by John Galliano at Christian Dior.

Galliano is worth watching for two reasons: a. he is said to be the models' favorite designer, and we all know fashionista's watch what models are wearing; b. he tends to be a trendsetter for other designers.
last season, he shows the boudoir look and voila! this season underwear is everywhere.

The femme fatale had always existed .......the original femme fatale was mother-of-all-mankind, eve from the bible, who caused the downfall of not just one man, but everybody. Lucrezia Borgia, poisoner extraordinaire from the italian renaissance period and Mata Hari, a dutch exotic dancer turned spy during the 1st world war were femme fatale's from the archives of history.

But it was Hollywood who really made the femme fatale famous in the 30's and 40's, with stars like Lauren Bacall, Joan Crawford and Marlene Dietrich.

Must-have's for budding femme fatale's are the smoldering eyes and lipstick red lips, parted ever so slightly. Helpful items would be the Veronica Lake hair-do, preferably covering one eye and the killer heels. You can be a blonde or redhead, no rules here, but being brunette definitely adds to the dark mystery.

Get some dress to kill ideas in the pics above.

MFDC - Shoe Design Competition 2010

2009-10-19T00:30:00.000-07:00

image from www.dezeen.com

added on 2nd Dec 2009: for other shoe design competitions and fashion design competitions, please search under LABELS (right) or click HERE

The Malaysian Footwear Design Competion (MFDC) deadline has been extended to the end of the month, so there's still time to finish up your designs and illustrations. Or prepare another submission!
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The competition is open to Malaysians.

We are allowed to submit 3 entries in each category. you can get the entry form from http://www.perakfootwear.com/
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40% of points awarded is for innovation and creativity whereas only 10% is awarded for practicality.
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Hint, hint.........they are looking for something different from the run of mill stuff.

take a look at the Mojito shoe in the pic above and here to get some inspiration.
or go to the dezeen blog and read about the design

Work in Progress - Shirley's Ball Gown (1)

2009-10-17T10:59:00.000-07:00

pic 2: front bodice and skirt; back bodice and skirt; added black tulle skirt to back

I'm halfway through sewing this gown and it's begining to look quite decadent!

there are 3 layers and lining to be sewn

layer 1 = taffeta in acid yellow.

layer 2 = black tulle, sewn together with layer 1 as one piece.

layer 3 = black tulle for the skirt , black lace for the bodice and black tulle for the draped shoulder/dropped sleeve.

lining is habutai silk in matching yellow. the lining will be a princess cut A-line.

there's also a wrap around sash in black tulle.....2 pieces which i will sew to side seams.

pics above show

1. front bodice and skirt pieces (layers 1 and 2) pinned to mandy, the M-size dress form.

2. back bodice and skirt pieces (layers 1 and 2)

3. added layer 3 (black tulle) to back skirt .....wow!
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pics below:

1st pic: fabrics used.

2nd pic shows skirt and godet pieces pinned on taffeta and about to be cut.

i used 6.5 metres of taffeta 54" and 13 metres of tulle!

counted 62 separate pieces altogether. that's a lot of sewing.

no wonder this feels like a marathon!

pic 1: fabric - black beaded lace, black tulle, acid yellow taffeta; skirt pieces pinned on taffeta

more pics soon........

Fall 2009 - Trench Coats

2009-10-16T11:17:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

The trench is perfect for those in-between weathers.

For those of us in the tropics, it's the ideal choice for travelling to cooler climes......light enough to carry on the plane, and less bulk in the luggage if you choose to pack it. layer with sweaters and wrap a scarf to keep the chill out. Three-quarter length is most versatile and looks great worn with separates/pants.

I like Bottega Veneta's classic trench in leather. It looks so chic and takes you right through winter too. Yves Saint Laurent's quilted version is perfect for dressier occasions and evenings.

Designer: Yohji Yamamoto

2009-10-15T08:57:00.000-07:00

image from style.com

Yohji Yamamoto is considered one of the most creative minds in fashion.
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His clothing has an austere, minimalist, unstructured, avant-garde style and his cutting edge designs often uses asymmetry, drapery and texture plays in somber colours especially black.

Seemingly anti-fashion, Yamamoto’s designs actually reflect the Japanese philosophy that irregularity is closer to nature and beauty is to be found in the textures of fabric rather than added embellishments. Yamamoto has largely eschewed prevailing fashion trends for timelessness and functionality.

He graduated from Keio University, Tokyo with a law degree in 1966 and completed his studies in fashion design at Bunka Fashion College in 1969. His flagship line, Y’s was started in Tokyo in the 70’s.

In 1982, Yamamoto made his international debut in Paris with Yohji Yamamoto for women. This was followed by the launch of Yohji Yamamoto pour Homme in 1984. Yamamoto has stores in Tokyo, Paris, London and New York.

His most famous collaboration was with Rei Kawakubo of Commes des Garcons in the 80’s.

Right after the showing of his Spring 2010 collection in October 2009, Yohji Yamamoto Inc. filed for bankruptcy, a victim of deteriorating sales caused by the global economic downturn.

Yohji Yamamoto will continue to design for Y3 the sportwear line, a hugely successful collaboration with Adidas.

Awards Received:

Yamamoto has received numerous awards, including Fashion Editors Club (FEC) Award Tokyo (1982, 1991, 1997), Mainichi Fashion Award (1986, 1994), Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and Master of Design (1999).

He is the only Japanese designer to receive the French Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres (1994).

In 2004, he was awarded the Japanese Medal of Honour.
In 2005, he received the French National Order of Merit.
In 2006, he was made an Honorary Royal Designer for Industry from the Royal Society of Arts.

The Mojito

2009-10-14T10:52:00.000-07:00

image from www.dezeen.com

Believe it or not, this is a shoe.

British architect Julian Hakes has designed a shoe of one continuous piece that wraps around the foot giving support to the heel and ball of the foot.

The shoe is called the ‘Mojito’ as it resembles a twist of lime skin.

Judging from the buzz on the dezeen blog, there's quite a lot of excitement over this breakthrough design and they are in the process of readying some prototypes.

read more about julian's design process and thoughts here

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Blocking with Patterns

2009-10-13T09:36:00.001-07:00

images from style.com

Colour blocking was shown on the runways for fall 2009. For Spring 2010, blocking is taken one step further with pattern combinations.

3.1 Philip Lim showed a geometric/plain combination. BCBG Max Azria and Thakoon used blocking to create asymmetry.

Tuleh matched dots of different colours against a black background for a 1950's look.

At Marchesa, lace was combined with sheer to create a distinctive evening look.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Asymmetry

2009-10-13T09:36:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Asymmetry continues to be popular into Spring 2010. This season asymmetry extends to the hemlines and one shoulder styles are fashionable for evening wear.

My favorite asymmetric evening gown has to be Marchesa's delectable shocking pink......perfect for a red-carpet occasion.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Knits

2009-10-12T08:39:00.001-07:00

images from style.com

Bring out those knitting needles and by spring you may have some knitwear right on the trend.
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Go for a preppy look like Hermes and Tommy Hilfiger, or make a his and hers set like Chanel. Or go ethnic like Issey Miyake.

Among my favorites: the sweater dress from Jaeger's collection seen in the pic above.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Back to Nature

2009-10-12T08:39:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Designers went back to nature and organic materials.

Ralph Lauren's prairie collection showed denims, workmen's shirts and small floral prints. At Botega Veneta, fresh white dresses were worn with woven espadrilles and bags made of leather woven to resemble straw.

Alabama Chanin's collection is made with organic and re-cycled materials, and hand-crafted by local artisans in Alabama.

Wunderkind's red toile de jouy dress could have been worn by a 17th century milkmaid.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Beach

2009-10-11T08:58:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Designers head for Malibu, the Caribbean and Mediterranean for spring 2010. Boys by Band of Outsiders's jacket has a nautical feel, Peter Som went retro and Blumarine's tie-dyes were reminiscent of the 70's. Emilio Pucci's prints reflect the underwater world and Alexander McQueen's collection was inspired by the lost city of Atlantis.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Retro 70's

2009-10-11T08:57:00.000-07:00

images by style.com

The 70's /Boho look continue to influence designers. Blumarine included a collection of hippie-inspired tie-dyes in the latest trend colours.Reem Acra showed a draped evening caftan.

Spring 2010 - Alabama Chanin - sustainable, organic fashion

2009-10-10T11:54:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Amidst all the gloomy news about the effects of the global economic crisis on the fashion trade, it was really heartening to see Alabama Chanin making a show on the runways with her collection of sustainable, organic clothing made from cotton grown in the US and hand-crafted by artisans who live and work around Florence, Alabama.

I visited the Alabama Chanin website and they have a very nice collection of clothing, including bridal wear and items for the home. They also run Studio Weekend Workshops for guests.

We've always had small workshops selling fringe fashion....indie and goth, but it would be nice to know that this can be taken to a commercial level globally.

Yohji Yamamoto files for bankruptcy protection

2009-10-10T11:25:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

I was really sad to read that Yohji Yamamoto is the latest of the fashion houses to file for bankruptcy protection with debts of $67 million.

According to the New York Times, the designer will continue to operate under Japan’s corporate rehabilitation law, and will continue his work as a designer.

Yohji Yamamoto was one of the forerunners of the Minimalist movement in the 80's which re-defined fashion.

read the full article from the New York Times here

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Goth

2009-10-09T09:35:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

With Halloween around the corner, fashion forward folks among us may want to look to Spring trends for Goth looks ideas.

I'm a secret goth fan so i'm pleased with the choices coming in spring. my favorites include Yohji Yamamoto. As always, once you eliminate the styling props (ghostly face and uncontrollably insane hair in this case), his clothes translate into timeless wearables with an edge. Love those cool fingerless gloves!

Galliano's sheer 30's victoriana is perfect for dress-up occasions.

Spring 2010 Style - Suits

2009-10-09T09:31:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Spring's in-between weather is perfect for showing off those suits. For 2010, we have a lot of choices from the runways. Chanel style is in, not that it's ever gone out of fashion. But this season, the two piece with short jacket has returned to the spotlight.

Armani's classic plaid jacket, seen above second from right, is up to the minute for those who prefer longer lengths.

Spring 2010 Chanel Suit

2009-10-07T09:15:00.000-07:00

image from style.com

Suits are a key trend for spring 2010 and Chanel has revived and updated their classic black & white Chanel suit.

The sihouette is feminine, another key spring 2010 trend.

Wear it with loads of pearls and Chanel No. 5.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Minimalism

2009-10-07T09:00:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Perhaps it's spring's call to de-clutter, or an urge for something simpler after the excesses of the pre-recession years. There is a growing trend for minimalism on the catwalks. Unlike the avant garde styles we've come to expect, this season's minimalists are very stylish and wearable.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Urban Warrior

2009-10-06T11:14:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Fall 2009's Bikers morphs into Spring's Urban Warriors.

Military details - metal buttons, zips, shoulder epaulets, double-breasted jackets and coats - define this look.

Max Mara's version is perfectly suited for corporate warfare over the boardroom table.

Just in time for Halloween: Death becomes Her

2009-10-06T02:49:00.000-07:00

image from style.com

I really liked Viktor & Rolf's collection. It's original, creative and mostly wearable.
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But someone let the boys loose with the hedge-trimmers and they've done some topiary on the tulle.

This gown triggered memories of Goldie and Meryl in "Death becomes Her".
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perhaps it's the red........

If you want to look at Sydney Opera House, Angel's Wing and David Copperfield's assistant cut in half, click HERE

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Boudoir/Lingerie

2009-10-05T12:51:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

The boudoir look is given a prairie flavour at D&G for Spring 2010. There is a distinctive noir influence at Christian Dior and in Oscar de la Renta's black lace. Tuleh showed fresh white as bridal wear.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Ethnic/Tribal

2009-10-05T12:45:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Tribals for Spring 2010 are dressed up with beading, embroidery, fringing and other embellishments.
I like Issey Miyake's comfy looking loose knit with prints and Oscar de la Renta's beaded tribal evening.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Draping

2009-10-04T07:41:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Draping continues to be popular, I suspect because so many women look good in draped garments. Draping works to give curves while hiding the bits you don't want anyone to know about.

For Spring 2010, look for draping in day and eveningwear.

My favorite? Vivienne Westwood's draped dress with wraparound waist. It's the 3rd pic from the left above.
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Triumph Inspiration Awards 2009 - International Winners

2009-10-03T23:43:00.000-07:00

Winner of the Triumph Inspiration Awards 2009 is James Nolan from Great Britain.

His design "Odette and Odile" explores the concept of metamorphosis and uses the story of Swan Lake as his icon.

2nd: Katinka Poole from Australia. Katinka's design reflects the distinctive skyline of Sydney Opera House.

3rd: Shani Elkin from Israel. Shani's inspiration is Jerusalem and her designs incorporates the Hebrew and Arabic calligaphic prints of Jerusalem.

Congratulations to James, Katinka and Shani.

here's the link to view all the finalists and winners:

http://www.triumph-inspiration-award.com/485.0.html
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Catching up on Classes and Hunting for the next Jimmy Choo

2009-10-03T11:08:00.000-07:00

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Resumed classes at SML last Friday.
Friday is Fashion Design with Jasmi.
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I have loads of catching up to do, as i had missed 2 weeks of classes due to all the stuff that's going on with my family. I shan't bore you with the details but suffice to say if both parents come from families of 10 with an average of 3 kids on mum's side and 5 kids on dad's side, something's bound to be happening at any point in time. Last month was especially eventful. Some good, some bad. But last month was mainly bad.
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Besides catching up on the lessons for fashion illustration, i need to make a start on the design project. Step 1 is to decide on the inspiration for my collection. I couldn't come up with anything specific on the spot, so Jasmi said to think about it over the weekend and collect images and other items for my journal.
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Renown Malaysian designer, Bill Keith popped in to remind everyone to submit their entries for the shoe design competition. Bill co-ordinates the annual Malaysian Footwear Design Competition sponsored by the various footwear associations in Malaysia. The winner will go on to compete in the international competition.
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"They are looking for the next Jimmy Choo." said Bill.
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Jimmy Choo is Malaysian, which gives the rest of us a smidgen of hope for fame and fortune on the international fashion stage.
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During my absence, I had missed the news about the competition. Jasmi said to try and submit an initial draft by next Wed anyway.
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"I can't draw feet yet." I said.

That's a problem isn't it, if you are going to design shoes.
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"Don't worry, I'll help you. You just come up with a few rough sketches and images to illustrate your concept." said Jasmi.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style - Body Conscious

2009-10-03T08:27:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

I'll have to make a note to include diet and exercise in my New Year resolutions list.
I'll need it after gorging myself at Christmas.
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Spring brings show-off-your-legs, body-skimming dresses.

My favorites were in pastels, nudes, black and white.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style: Sheer Lightness

2009-10-03T08:14:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Time to lighten up for Spring 2010.

I like Jason Wu's printed sheers and Tracy Reese's black on white with large dots.
At Marchesa, spring brides were cotton-wrapped with feather-light layers of sheers and shimmer
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Spring 2010 Trends - Style: Desert, Savannah

2009-10-02T12:55:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

In Spring 2010, designers go on exploration to the desert and the African savannah.

Colours are sand-washed......beiges, greys and khaki's.

Spring 2010 Trends - Style: Geometrics

2009-10-02T12:43:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Designers continue to develop the Geometric theme in Spring 2010. Geometric shapes flowed through 3.1 Philip Lim's collection. Derek Lam's collection included strong structural silhouettes. At BCBG, Max Azria used colour blocking and piping to highlight to highlight asymmetric geometric shapes.

Spring 2010 Trends - Prints & Motifs - Tribal (5)

2009-10-01T09:51:00.001-07:00

images from style.com

The ethnic look is back and this season, designers were inspired by the tribes of Africa.
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Marc by Marc Jacobs' tribals were in modern brights and Monique Lhuillier's collection had a strong masai influence. I like Max Azria for Hervé Léger's beaded version.

Spring 2010 Trends - Prints & Motifs - Stripes (4)

2009-10-01T09:38:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Classic pinstripes in the Fall 2009 collections gave us a hint of this trend.

In line with his 1930's theme, Ralph Lauren showed a blue pinstriped 3-piece banker suit accessorized with men's tie and hankie. Chris Benz's version was bright and cheery. Tommy Hilfiger and Badgley Mischka's collections featured nautical themes.

At the beach in the 50's

2009-09-30T07:31:00.000-07:00

original image from style.com

Peter Som's 50's inspired beach outfit looks so retro, i couldn't resist turning it into a black and white photo.
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see the original pic in the post below.

Spring 2010 Trends - Prints & Motifs - Dots (3)

2009-09-30T06:56:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

I thought dots had all but disappeared from the fashion scene, but now they're back with a boom!
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I love Chris Benz's peek-a-boo circus-coloured dots, Peter Som's the-way-your-mama-would-have-worn-it 1950's polka dots, Marc by Marc Jacobs' big and bold dots, 3.1 Philip Lim's dots within dots on metallic combined with geometrics, and L'Wren Scott's 40's themed polka's.

Spring 2010 Trend - Prints & Motifs - Geometrics (2)

2009-09-30T06:53:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

The Geometric theme is strong for Spring 2010. Watch for 50's inspired graphics, "wallpaper" prints like those in Marc Jacobs prairie-inspired collection, tribal and nature-inspired graphics.

Spring 2010 Trends - Prints & Motifs - Florals (1)

2009-09-29T08:41:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Prints were everywhere on the catwalk. The most popular were floral, graphic, tribal, nautical, and 1950's motifs.

Here is a selection of florals used in day and evening wear.

Spring 2010 Colour - Iridescence (7)

2009-09-29T07:53:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Complimenting the delicate sheers or as an alternative, wear metallics, iridescent colours. The key here is subtle shimmer. Shine for Spring 2010 is feminine, lady-like. Embellishments like sequins and beading are popular for evening wear.

Spring 2010 Colours - Blended, Tone on Tone (6)

2009-09-28T08:45:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Blended colours were a new feature on the catwalks this season.

I like Calvin Klein's tribal look, Ralph Lauren's romantic blended blues and Max Azria's sheer layered tonals.

Spring 2010 Colours - Earth Tones (5)

2009-09-27T06:34:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Colours of rock strata, desert sands, summer in Tuscany ....beiges, browns, coppers, ochre, sand and stone. If you're into neutrals, these muted earthy tones are perfect for spring 2010.

Spring 2010 Colours - Black & White (4)

2009-09-25T22:54:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

For the past few years, the fashion media has been telling us "X is the new black".

Starting Autumn 2009, black is back in the limelight.
In Spring 2010, black marries white in some stunning combinations.
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Among my favorites: Helmut Lang's blended tones, Marchesa's white gown with black florals and Isaac Mizrahi's white/black floral layered over black.

Spring 2010 Colours - Red (3)

2009-09-25T07:49:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

The big star this season is red.

Almost all the major collections featured this traffic-stopping colour.

Lipstick red is a favorite

Spring 2010 Colours - Brights (2)

2009-09-25T07:27:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

A cheerful optimism was evident on the runways in Chris Benz's Soda Fountain pastels and Badgley Mischka's tropical brights reminiscent of the 1950's in havana.
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Marc Jacob's tribal prints, Diane von Furstenberg's safari prints and Monique Lhuillier's masai warriors were given a splash of colour.
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look out for shocking pinks, acid yellows, burnt oranges and azure blues.

Spring 2010 Colours - Pastels, Denim Blues (1)

2009-09-24T10:50:00.000-07:00

images from style.com

Soft watercolour pastels in shades of pink, yellow and blue were offset by neutrals in desert shades and soft greys. I liked Tommy Hilfiger's mono collection in pink and Calvin Klein's pastel sheers.

Denim is back. Ralph Lauren matched his with small floral prints, with blue workshirts and striped night shirts in his prairie collection.

Free Clothing Patterns (from Burdastyle)

2009-09-23T04:43:00.000-07:00

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this is an aladin's cave of free and almost free (less than $5) clothing and accessories patterns.
best of all, the patterns are mainly for clothing (tops, dresses etc) with some lingerie and accessories.
i counted 97 free patterns which is so cool!

here's the link: http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns

Word of warning: they are upgrading the site and if you are using Internet Explorer, you may encounter some screen "hanging" problems.

Firefox users have no problems so i have provided a link for the free download below:

http://downloads.yahoo.com/firefox/?serp

ironically, burdastyle has gone open source and firefox is an open source software.

Open Source Sewing?

2009-09-23T04:39:00.000-07:00

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I like this!

Burdastyle has adopted open source sewing.
that means copyright free sewing patterns, ie you can now use their patterns to make items for sale.

read more about it on their blog:
http://www.burdastyle.com/discussions/getting-started/topics/what-is-open-source-sewing

Open source is a concept borrowed from the IT nerds, my favorite nerd being Linus Torvalds, the father of linux, an open source programming platform.

Many sewing and fashion folks may not appreciate all this IT stuff, but thank goodness for Linus Torvalds else we would all be subject to software slavery under Microsoft!

Linus created linux and put it in the public domain. with the code being copyright free and free of license fee, programmers can develop free and cheaper software.

Julie's Nyonya Kebaya

2009-09-20T05:50:00.000-07:00

Completed just in time for Hari Raya Aidilfitri!

Julie looks lovely in this retro Kebaya, made from pink lace with raised gold threadwork. The kebaya has a panel of horizontal pleating in front.

You hardly see this style of Kebaya these days, which is a pity as the design is very flattering. Instead of horizontal pleating, the panel sometimes had a pattern of overlapping diagonal pleating in a "fishbone" pattern, which looks great too.

We matched the Kebaya with the grey satin bustier and mermaid skirt which i made earlier and which you can see here.

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Style and Sewing Notes:

the collar is raised slightly at the back
there is a peplum which is joined to the bodice at the waist. this enabled me to cut the bottom part of the kebaya on the bias so that the lace edging would slant from the side seam down 9cm to the front. the peplum is great for shaping the back too!
The trimming on the edge of the lace was cut in a strip for the collar.
There wasn't enough fabric to get the lace edging on the ends of the sleeves, so remnant lace edging was tacked onto the sleeves and this matches nicely with the collar and bottom edge of the kebaya.
as the lace is translucent and soft, fine pink netting was used to underline the collar to hold its shape.
i placed netting and lace together then did the pleating. the net worked a treat to define and hold the pleating. for comfort, i underlined the pleated panel with netting.
the kebaya is fastened on the left side. buttons were sewn on the left edge of the attached pleated panel, and buttonholes on the main bodice are hidden by the collar.
with soft and fragile fabric, the buttonholes need to be reinforced to prevent tearing. this is done by placing a small square of interfacing over the buttonhole position before machining. the excess interfacing is then cut off.

Triumph Inspiration Award 2009

2009-09-18T21:28:00.000-07:00

image from triumph-inspiration-award.com

How cool can you get?

Madam and fellow SML student Eugene Ng will be at the Triumph Inspiration Awards grande finale in Milan on Sept 23.

Eugene won the Triumph Inspiration Malaysian Award and will be representing Malaysia in the international contest!

That's Eugene's winning design in the pic above.

Congratulations Eugene and well done!

The theme this year is "Icons"

take a look at all the international finalists' designs at:

http://www.triumphinspirationaward.com/finalists0.0.html

Spring 2010 Trend and Colour report (from CIFF)

2009-09-11T09:02:00.000-07:00

image from ciff.dk

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CIFF (Copenhagen International Fashion Fair) is one of the biggest events in the European ready to wear market, catering for women, men, children, accessories and swimwear.
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Watch a video of the Spring/Summer 2010 Trend show and also the CIFF Kids show on their site.
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oh, and don't forget to download the free CIFF Trends Description report for Spring/Summer 2010 covering colour and style trends for Spring/Summer 2010.

here's the link:
http://www.ciff.dk/CIFF-3.aspx
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Spring 2010 Colours: Preview Report (from Pantone)

2009-09-10T05:50:00.000-07:00

image from pantone.com

New York fashion week kicks off today!

Take a look at the colour directions for Spring 2010 in this free report from Pantone.

Designers including Peter Som, Badgley Mischka and Tracy Reese talk about their colour choices and style must-have's for Spring.

here's the link:

http://www.pantone.com/pages/Pantone/Pantone.aspx?pg=20694&ca=4

Fashion Design Competition: Passion for Fashion

2009-09-04T00:29:00.000-07:00

If you are a high school senior who's thinking of going into Fashion Design or Fashion Marketing, you could win yourself a full scholarship to study at the Art Institute!

Other goodies for the grand prize winner is a trip to New York Fashion Week next February, and a $500 shopping spree courtesy of Seventeen Mag.

Open to legal residents of the US, Canada except Quebec, district of Columbia and Puerto Rico.
Closing date for submissions is Nov 20th.

here's the link:
http://www.artinstitutes.edu/competitions/passion-for-fashion.aspx
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Inspiration: architecture

2009-09-03T10:07:00.000-07:00

images from Lluis Bazan (octopussy4) at sxc.hu, style.com

Look out for architecture inspired styles for Spring 2010.

Designers often seek inspiration from Architecture, interior design and the other arts. Not surprising as there's always been a cross-fertilization of ideas across the spectrum of the creative fields.

From the late 19th to the early 20th century, the Arts and Crafts movement triggered a sharing of ideals and ideas between architecture, interior design, crafts, the arts and printing. William Morris (decorative arts, textiles, printing), Charles Rennie Mackintosh (architect, designer, painter), Frank Lloyd Wright (architect), Dante Gabriel Rossetti (artist) are among the more famous members of this movement.

Inspiration - History

2009-09-02T07:47:00.000-07:00

Image from the V&A museum http://www.vam.ac.uk/

Fashion & interior designer, architects and artists have always delved into history as a source of inspiration.

One of the biggest collections of western clothing is, amazingly, found in Japan at the Kyoto Costume Institute.
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The institute has over 11,000 pieces of clothing of historical and sociological interest which have been loaned to various museums worldwide for exhibitions.
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They're not open for general public viewing unfortunately, due to the need to maintain a stringent preservation environment, although there is a study room on-site where you can view the collection digitally.
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Fortunately for us, there's also an online archive where you can see 200 of their pieces.
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Follow this link:

http://www.kci.or.jp/
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Inspiration: Harajuku

2009-09-01T05:29:00.000-07:00

images from harajukugirls1st.blogspot, wikipedia, contexts.org

Every generation has its fashion rebels, usually young people who refuse to be constrained by convention and set their own standards for style. And sometimes, the conventional fashion world follows their lead.

Gwen Stefani's backup dancers, the Harajuku Girls and her fashion line, are inspired by the street fashions of Harajuku in Tokyo, Japan.

The area has long been known as a meeting spot for Japanese teens and a source of unique, original and creative street fashions. Expressions of individuality is the norm here. Styles are varied and constantly evolving. gothic lolita, victorian princess, punks, anime, cute or kawaii are some of the looks you will find in Harajuku.

Inspiration - On the Street

2009-09-01T05:27:00.000-07:00

jean's travel pic - New York Times Square

Inspiration is everywhere.

Even on the streets.

The way sunlight hits the reflective windows of a skyscrapper, the shape of a building, the trimmings on an old brownstone, the intricate designs of a victorian railing, the girl in the vintage dress, the elderly lady in her tweed suit or twin set and pearls, the skateboarder zooming past, indie fashions in a shop window, a striking poster, graffiti on the walls, street art, the electric patterns of neon lights........

Inspiration: The Peacock

2009-08-31T05:41:00.000-07:00

Inspiration: Nature

2009-08-31T05:35:00.000-07:00

image from jpaulocv at sxc.hu

Nature has always been a source of inspiration for designers.

The brilliant colours of a sunset, the feathers of a peacock, the tone on tone variations of rock strata, the patterns on a leaf, the shape of a tulip, a pink waterlily floating in an emerald pool, lavender fields against bright blue skies in provence, desert winds creating waves in the sand, ripples of a pebble hitting water, the deep red-golds of autumn leaves against evergreens, dewdrops on a leaf glistening in the dawn.....

The Nyonya Kebaya 7

2009-08-30T08:09:00.000-07:00

image compliments of Usha & Wei Ching

The main picture shows details of an embroidery design typically used on Nyonya Kebaya's.
The kebaya would be worn with a co-ordinating wrap over sarong. The insert shows the pattern used on the matching sarong.

today we wear these kebaya's over bustier and mermaid skirts, as a light evening jacket over a slip dress, or even over a strappy top and jeans; and baby, that looks good!

The Nyonya Kebaya 6

2009-08-30T07:54:00.001-07:00

images compliments of Usha and Wei Ching

close-ups of embroidery used on Nyonya Kebaya's

Nyonya Kebaya 5

2009-08-30T07:48:00.001-07:00

image compliments of Usha & Wei Ching

The Nyonya Kebaya 4

2009-08-30T07:41:00.001-07:00

Nyonya's liked to use floral motifs in their embroidery.

image compliments of Usha & Wei Ching.

The Nyonya Kebaya 3

2009-08-30T06:56:00.001-07:00

image compliments of Usha & Wei Ching

These are Nyonya kebaya's.

The style/cut is similar to the Malay kebaya, but the Nyonya's liked to use light cotton voiles and incorporated a lot of embroidery in the kebaya's.

During the 50's and 60's, it was the trend to wear a black corset under the Kebaya, so you can see the corset beneath the thin material of the kebaya.

Today, we wear the kebaya over a camisole or a bustier.

The Nyonya Kebaya 2

2009-08-30T06:47:00.001-07:00

This is a closer look at the beaded slippers from the previous post.

the shape of the slipper and the design is drawn on canvas which is cut before beading. tiny glass beads are used.

if this one looks like english embroidery, you are right.

some of the nyonya bead patterns were inspired by european embroidery.

The Nyonya Kebaya 1

2009-08-30T05:31:00.000-07:00

image compliments of Usha & Wei Ching

clockwise from bottom left: gold hair pins, beaded slippers, bridal hankerchief, examples of embroidery on kebaya (3), sarongs (2), more examples of kebaya embroidery (2)

Travel addicts Usha & Wei Ching were in Malacca for the Nyonya Kebaya exhibition. Wish I could have gone along *sob*. But at least we get to see the pics!

Thanks for sharing the photo's ladies!

A bit of background for those who are scratching their heads: "Nyonya who??"

Nyonya's are descended from Chinese immigrants to the Malay peninsula in the 15th & 16th centuries. Culturally, they have adapted to the local Malay culture while retaining most of their chinese heritage and traditions. Their language is a mixture of Malay and Chinese words, and Nyonya food is a scrumptious combination of Malay and Chinese styles of cooking

The traditional Nyonya way of dressing is another distinguishing feature: they have adapted the sarong kebaya - a long sleeve top over a long sarong - with the addition of embroidery and beading, worn with heavily beaded slippers and distinctive brooches.

Nyonya's are famous for their embroidery and beading skills.

Sadly, we see very little hand-embroidered Kebaya's nowadays but in Malacca, you can still buy hand-beaded shoes and slippers.

Inspiration

2009-08-30T05:20:00.001-07:00

Even though the trend analysts determine the coming trends, each designer interpret the trends in his/her own way. so where do they get their inspiration from?

This question is best answered by one of the greatest designers of our time:

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Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.

Coco Chanel

Batik - Malaysia/Indonesia - Block Printing Method

2009-08-29T09:33:00.000-07:00

Traditional Batik from Yogyakarta, Indonesia
images compliments of my good friends and fellow globe-trotters, Usha and Wei Ching

Batik refers to fabric where the wax resist method of dyeing is used to print or paint patterns, and is native to Malaysia, Indonesia, other SE Asian countries as well as African and Carribean countries.

Traditionally, Batik in Malaysia and Indonesia is made using the block printing method or drawing method.

Block printing involves the use of a hand-held stamp fashioned from wood or metal. This is then dipped in hot/liquid wax and the pattern stamped onto the fabric in repeating blocks. As the wax seeps into the fabric and dries, the area covered by the wax becomes dye resistant. Coloured dye is then applied to the rest of the fabric either by dipping or by painting.

Where there are more than 2 colours, the stamping process is repeated with wax applied to a different part of the pattern, and another round of dye applied to the fabric using a different colour.

The final colours are then fixed and the wax removed by boiling or using a solvent.

Software Downloads

2009-08-29T07:26:00.000-07:00

i was asked how i did the photo collages.

i use an old version of adobe photoshop, which i've had for ages from when i did a short graphics design course.

but there's free photoediting software which will do the same thing. here's a link for one site for software downloads, which also has user ratings. the cnet site is a respected site among the IT community:

http://download.cnet.com/windows/digital-photo-software/?tag=rb_content;contentNav

please note that some are free, some are free for a trial period, some are shareware and others are commercial versions for sale. so remember to click on "free" on the search bar to your left. and don't forget to check whether it's for use on your operating system. also please note that cnet may not have reviewed all the offerings.

note: i am not affliated to the site in any way.